LIBRI

Downton Abbey–era fashion is explored through the life and extensive wardrobe of real-life Edwardian London socialite Heather Firbank (1888–1954), whose treasures, bought from the world’s leading couturiers and the very best dressmakers and tailors in London, were gifted to the V&A after her death. The collection forms an invaluable record of a stylish and wealthy woman’s taste from about 1905 to 1920, and actually served as inspiration to Downton Abbey’s Emmy Award–winning costume designer, Susannah Buxton. Beautifully illustrated with new photography of Firbank’s evening gowns, tailored suits, and hats, the book also features contemporary photographs and pages from Firbank’s own fashion cuttings albums.

Beginning with Isaac Mizrahi’s first fashion collection, which debuted to critical acclaim in 1986, and running though the present day, this stylish, lavishly illustrated book presents his signature couture collections. Mizrahi’s exuberant couture style is classic American, inventively reimagined. He pioneered the concept of “high/low” in fashion, and was the first high-end fashion designer to create an accessibly priced mass-market line. Mizrahi approached other complex issues through his designs, as well—mixing questions of beauty and taste with those of race, religion, class, and politics.  Although Mizrahi (b. 1961) is best known for his clothing, his work in theater, film, and television is also explored. The result is a spirited discourse on high versus low, modern glamour, and contemporary culture. Three essayists discuss Mizrahi’s place in fashion history, his close connection to contemporary art, and the performative nature of his designs. New photography brings Mizrahi’s fashions to life, and an interview with the artist offers an intimate perspective on his kaleidoscopic work in diverse media.

il libro fa parte di una mostra al National Art Center, Tokyo, nel 2016, la prima retrospettiva su vasta scala per mostrare la miriade di idee emerse nel corso della carriera del designer, dalle sue prime attività ai progetti attuali. Ampiamente riconosciuto per i suoi modelli di abbigliamento guidati dalla tecnologia, Miyake Issey ha stimolato il mondo della cultura e della moda per quasi mezzo secolo con il suo repertorio organico sapientemente articolato, alimentato da una curiosità sconfinata e dall'amore per la sperimentazione. Il catalogo esplora i temi principali della sua spinta innovativa, integrati dalla fotografia esperta di Hiroshi Iwasaki  - The National Art Center, Tokyo held an exhibition which focused on the work of Miyake Issey from March 16 (Wed) to June 13 (Mon), 2016.

This newest addition to the Victoria and Albert Museum’s series on historical dress patterns presents full instructions for the making of men’s historical garments in a technically accurate, visually exciting, step-by-step format. The book delves into the intricate detail of the techniques involved in historical tailoring and dressmaking. Scale patterns, precise construction diagrams, an abundance of informative details, and x-ray photographs that reveal the hidden structure of each piece are accompanied by color photography of the whole garment. Edited by the world’s leading authorities on historical tailoring, 17th-Century Men's Dress Patterns surveys the masculine wardrobe in England during the early seventeenth century. It features twelve chapters, each dedicated to one garment, including an ensemble of doublet and breeches, three doublets, a cloak, a hat, a night cap and a night-cap liner, a picadil, a pair of mittens, a sword girdle and hangers, and a linen stocking. Chapters on tailoring, dressing and inventories of men’s dress provide key historical context. Like its predecessors, this book promises to be a unique resource for costume designers, dress and social historians, students, and fashion enthusiasts alike. 300 color photographs and 800 line drawings.

This lavish book focuses on Parisian and British couture between 1947 and 1957, a decade that Christian Dior described as fashion's 'golden age'. Dior's 'New Look' collection of 1947 shocked and delighted the fashion world, creating a style that symbolised a new femininity. The full skirts and hour glass silhouettes were considered highly decadent, synonymous with luxury and extravagance, in marked contrast to the austerity of the war years. Nevertheless, the 'New Look'caught the public imagination and ushered in a period of remarkable creativity.The Golden Age of Couture features stunning gowns and exquisite tailoring from designers such as Balenciaga, Balmain, Givenchy, and Dior as well as evocative photographs by the likes of Richard Avedon and Cecil Beaton.

Vivienne Westwood Shoes racconta, attraverso più di 130 stupefacenti paia di scarpe, la collezione di calzature di una delle più geniali ed irriverenti stiliste del XX secolo. Il libro mette insieme i modelli che la stilista ha disegnato per le proprie collezioni dagli anni '70 ad oggi, ognuno fotografato per l’occasione e accompagnato da accurate informazioni tecniche e di costume. Attraverso questi modelli, Vivienne Westwood Shoes ripercorre la storia dell’ascesa della stilista nell’olimpo della moda e, parallelamente, la storia del costume degli ultimi trent’anni. Questa pubblicazione riassume in modo evidente il contributo di innovazione della Westwood alla storia del fashion design, contributo che insiste sul riuscito connubio di audace anticonformismo e senso della tradizione. Le scarpe realizzate da Vivienne Westwood prendono le distanze dal gusto massificato, mantenendo forte il richiamo ai modelli e ai tessuti della tradizione anglosassone, nonché una forte attenzione all’aspetto artigianale delle creazioni. Vivienne Westwood è senz’altro la più grande stilista inglese vivente. Nata nel Cheshire (UK), deve la sua fama alla definizione dei canoni estetici della moda punk e new wave e, soprattutto, alla popolarità di Sex, la boutique aperta insieme a Malcom McLaren negli anni '70 in King's Road a Londra. Nel 1981 con sua prima collezione, "Pirate", è stata definitivamente consacrata a simbolo dell’avanguardia britannica. Da allora, il suo stile e le sue creazioni sono sempre state influenzate dalla cultura giovanile e di strada, reinterpretando con ironia la tradizione.

Non è una novità che anche un piccolo dettaglio faccia una grande differenza. Infatti ogni prodotto è diverso dagli altri proprio per quella serie di particolari che lo rendono unico e originale. Anche nel campo della moda vale questa regola. Prova ne siano tutti quei dettagli che nel tempo sono divenuti simbolo delle maison stesse: lo scollo di Chanel che Karl Lagerfeld reinventa anno dopo anno è simbolo indiscusso della casa francese. Certi dettagli sono diventati addirittura simbolo di un’epoca, come il corpetto a forma di cono che Gautier ha disegnato per Madonna in occasione del tour mondiale Blond Ambition. La storia della moda non fa che confermare questa certezza.Nei secoli i dettagli hanno costituito l’elemento di differenziazione dei diversi periodi e delle diverse classi sociali. Questo libro passa in rassegna le settimane della moda nel mondo per raccogliere le tendenze internazionali e le particolarità più significative, grazie anche alle splendide fotografie a colori dei dettagli e delle passerelle.

Questo è il follow-up al culto giapponese libro drappeggio "Drape Drape" e ils econdo della serie di Bunka Fashion College. Esso comprende 14 eleganti design contemporaneo per top, abiti, gonne, gilet e giacche, con istruzioni e diagrammi facili da seguire passo-passo che abilmente guidano il lettore attraverso il processo di drappeggio. Con due modelli in scala sul retro, questo libro offre interessanti idee di design e tecniche molto pratiche per i lettori che cercano di continuare ad esplorare l'arte del drappeggio.

Questo è il primo libro della serie DRAPE DRAPE nato dalla Bunka Fashion College in Giappone, scuola di Yohji Yamamoto. Esso comprende 17 disegni alla moda e realizzabili, con istruzioni e schemi che guidano il lettore attraverso il processo di drappeggio facile da seguire passo-passo. Con due modelli ripiegati sul retro, questo libro fornisce idee ispiratrici e tecniche altamente pratici per chi vuole conoscere drappeggio.

Draping is the art of using cotton muslin to create a fashion design directly on a mannequin. It is an essential skill for fashion designers. In this book, Karolyn Kiisel presents a series of step-by-step projects, creating real garments in classic styles, that are designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques.Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills and with 40 videos tutorials you can watch with QR-code directly to you're phone.Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained through specially commissioned step-bystep photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life.

Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics è il terzo libro della serie cult che riguarda il taglio dei modelli giapponesi. Il nuovo volume, tradotto ora anche in lingua inglese, tratta la lavorazione dei tessuti elasticizzati e jersey. Il materiale che si estende longitudinalmente o lateralmente può essere magico di per sé. Questo libro sfrutta le qualità speciali del jersey e dei tessuti elastici e le usa per creare splendidi disegni scultorei. Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics illustra in due parti distinte, come lavorare con i tessuti elastici e come tagliare modelli che ne sfruttano le proprietà con risultati davvero originali. Il libro è accompagnato da un blocco di cartamodelli di base.Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics is the third in the series of cult Japanese pattern cutting books, now translated into English. The new volume looks at working with stretch and jersey fabric. Material that stretches lengthways or sideways can be magical in itself. This book takes the special qualities of stretch fabrics and uses them to create stunning, sculptural designs. In two parts, the book shows how to work with stretch fabrics and how to cut patterns that exploit their properties with truly original results. The book is accompanied by a basic paper pattern block.

Pattern Magic 2 is the cult pattern-cutting text from Japan, partner to the original Pattern Magic book. Inspiring and exciting, this volume takes a creative approach to pattern cutting, with more step-by-step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. This book looks at creating interesting surfaces, optical illusions and curved shapes through pattern cutting. All the basic information you need to start pattern cutting is included, from the basic block to measurements and scaling. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the toiles and the finished garments. These easy-to-follow illustrations and detailed instructions make it easy to create stunning, sculptural clothes.

Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-making book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometricshapes, and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. The book takes a creative approach to pattern making, with step-by- step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the muslins, and the finished garments.

Menswear is one of the most creative and dynamic areas in fashion today. Changing attitudes, a relaxation of dress codes and larger disposable incomes have all led to men spending more money on looking good than ever before.Modern Menswear is defying convention and changing the fashion landscape. Creating this focus is a group of visionaries who have shifted the boundaries of menswear design, designers who have broken with tradition to visualize radical and directional clothing. They are not concerned with the formalities and traditions of menswear, but see their garments as an expression of contemporary thought. With a huge range of imagery, Modern Menswear showcases these fashion leaders, profiling big names and emerging talent from across the world. Designers featured include Marc Jacobs, Yoji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano, with an insight into their design processes and their contribution to the contemporary fashion aesthetic.